With Alexander Wang preparing his first collection for Balenciaga, it was tempting to read clues into his own line, shown Saturday evening. First, there was the august setting–the ornate lobby of the Cunard building in lower Manhattan.
You might not sail for France aboard a Cunard ship but the name certainly has the tingle of adventure and broken Champagne glasses. Then there were the couture satins and drop-waist, 1920s silhouette of coats that combined wool and leather or fur. This vintage coat style, with a martingale or sometimes a double martingale, was occasionally beefed with a mohair shrug and a knitted hoodie or cap.
There were also straight-line, round-shoulder tops, trousers, and below-the-knee skirts with an ample front pleat. All in all, the effect was bulky — more like a battleship than a graceful ocean liner. Elbow-length fur mittens didn't help. On the models' feet were mules covered in gray ribbed socks that left the backs of heels nearly bare. Alternatively, there were shower sandals worn with socks.
The palette was predominantly gray and silvery gray, with some black and navy and a bit of white. Some of the fabrics looked upholstery-thick. The collection's strong points were the mohair knits (shrugs and sweat pants), the more streamlined of the coats, and some terrific evening separates in duchess satin — simply draped and vented tops in black or white satin with a wide banded hem. They were shown with slim black trousers. With those outfits, Mr. Wang proposed something modern and interesting.
Related: Alexander Wang, fall 2013
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