Comme des GarÃ§ons Turns Up the Volume

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March 7, 2015

Comme des Garçons Turns Up the Volume

Comme des Garçons' oversize and overstuffed creatures, padded like pillows or caged like birds, made for some of the week's most gorgeous and inexplicable visions. And it was sweet and unexpectedly touching when the models, too big to fit two abreast on the runway, had to meet and do a little pas de deux (or maybe more accurate to call it a do-si-do) around each other to continue on their ways.

Rei Kawakubo's gnomic little riddle of explanation, "ceremony of separation," suggested, as usual, only more questions. Comme-ologists (guilty as charged!) will mull and stew on those. For the rest, suffice it to say this ceremony, whatever else it was, was a bright spot in a so-far mostly dim week. — MATTHEW SCHNEIER

"Mourning dress, at #CommeDesGarcons #PFW" (center)

"How all that lacey binding translates into clothes at #CommeDesGarcons #PFW" (right)

"Dualities in motion at #CommedesGarcons #PFW " (left)

— @VVFriedman

NOWFASHION

March 7, 2015

Street Style

A showgoer in Paris.

Craig Arend for The New York Times

A Season at the Opera

A peculiar formality has seeped onto the runways of fashion's premier tastemakers, seen in such all-but-extinct totems of Kennedy-era propriety as fur stoles, kitten heels and most — or least — convincingly, depending on your bias: opera gloves.

Snug, over-the-elbow variations provided the chaste yet weirdly provocative finish to collections as diverse as those of Marc Jacobs (top, center) in New York, Thomas Tait (bottom, right) in London, Prada (top, left) in Milan and, in Paris, Dries Van Noten (top, right) and Ann Demeulemeester (bottom, left.)

Prada offered opera gloves in most every color of the spectrum, from bridal blush to mint and steamy scarlet, while Mr. Van Noten went for a more subdued effect with skin-hugging versions in spice and tobacco.

Were such gestures intended ironically, a nod in some instances to Amal Clooney's prim deb gloves, which caused such a kerfuffle at the Golden Globes, or, more recently, to the rubberized dishwashing gloves worn by Lady Gaga at the Oscars? Hard to say.

Mr. Jacobs handled his renditions with Gagaesque sauciness, garnishing his opulently moody collection with the kind of latexlike gloves that have long been the Pleasure Chest's stock in trade. — RUTH LA FERLA

Firstview

Mugler in a Nut Shell

"At Mugler: short, tight, grommets, leather. 'nuff said. #PFW" — @VVFriedman

Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times

Haider Ackermann

"One of the best black tie jumpsuits of the week, courtesy of Haider Ackermann #PFW " — @VVFriedman

Guillaume Roujas/NOWFASHION

Junya Watanabe's Art

Fold me up, fold me down. Origami may be a paper art, but on Saturday morning in Paris Junya Watanabe transformed it into clothes: basic black and gray jackets, dresses and coats worn over white shirts but honeycombed, concertina-ed, mille-feuilled and otherwise engineered into something else entirely. Some pieces resembled a sea urchin's spikes; some called to mind the carapace of a giant squid (careful how close you get), others a beachcomber's net. Careful, or you'll get caught in the fashion fray. — VANESSA FRIEDMAN

Gio Staiano/NOWFASHION

March 7, 2015

Hailee Steinfeld

Ms. Steinfeld in Paris.

Craig Arend for The New York Times

Undercover's Version of a High School Uniform

Jun Takahashi's show for Undercover was very Japanese in the sense that we saw things that were familiar, but with a sense of distortion. Varsity/baseball jackets had huge billowing backs, and denim was overlaid with chiffon. It was a twisted version of a high school uniform. — MALINA JOSEPH GILCHRIST

Guillaume Roujas/NOWFASHION

Balenciaga

Porcupine coat at Balenciaga. Don't get too close - it could poke you. (left) — @VVFriedman

When the carpet reflects the dress at Balenciaga. (third from left) — @VVFriedman

Nowfashion

Where's John Galliano?

As the last orange-wig-clad model disappeared into the wings of John Galliano's first Maison Margiela woman's ready-to-wear show, the audience burst into applause. They waited for the designer to appear. No Galliano. "John, John," shouted the photographers. No John.

Suddenly new music drifted from the speakers, as it had in his Dior days to signal his final strut. But this time ... no John.

As editors like Stefano Tonchi of W and Anna Wintour of Vogue and retailers like Natalie Massenet of Net-a-Porter finally gave up and streamed backstage to find him for themselves, they found instead a spokesperson saying that Mr. Galliano was unfortunately already gone.

While they were busy clapping, he was busy leaving, apparently honoring the Margiela tradition of choosing not to appear post-show. Just call him Greta Galliano. — VANESSA FRIEDMAN

Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images

Sight Lines

Face the future at Undercover. — @VVFriedman

Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times

Knives Out

A knife to the heart at Undercover. — @VVFriedman

Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times

Extension at Undercover

"The (very) extended tailcoat at the terrific #Undercover by Jun Takahashi #PFW" — @VVFriedman

March 6, 2015

Isabel Marant's Essentials

Ms. Marant's essentials are sturdy, time-tested things: a big sweater, a tiny skirt. They make a lot of sense. So while Ms. Marant occasionally swoops wide of the path, often she'll take the road more traveled by. This season was one of these.

"It started with a little feeling for tiny things," she said backstage: a smattering of Liberty-like florals, a navy man's sweater and bib-buttoning trousers. How they all fit together is a matter for every woman to take into her own hands. The mix is, how you say, le kitchen sink?

If there was a dominant mode, it was suggested by the super-high-waisted jeans, and the frilly, sheer dresses and tops. They recur periodically, but they're more or less the look of now. Ms. Marant, for her part, is already on to the next. "That's fashion," she said. — MATTHEW SCHNEIER

Miguel Medina/Agence France-Presse

So Many Handbags at Loewe

Girls and their handbags on the march at Loewe. — @VVFriedman

Almost every look at @LoeweOfficial has a bag. — @VVFriedman

Photographs by Michel Euler/Associated Press, except center, Bertrand Guay/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images

The Dior Look

At Dior, the designer Raf Simons said he was trading la "femme fleur" for la "femme animal" — a New Look indeed for the house. Bodysuits in exaggerated giraffe spots and rolling veld knit jacquard stalked the runway; carwash pinafores looked sliced by some very big claws; and it was all mixed in with some classic tweeds and crisp white shirts. Woman she might be, but in a man's world you could hear her roar. — VANESSA FRIEDMAN

"Stretch cross-hatch patent leather skirt and top @Dior #PFW" — @VVFriedman

Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times

Dior

"Feral fur mini-dress at @Dior #PFW"

"Get ready for the "femme animale" at @Dior #PFW"

— @VVFriedman

Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times

Dakota Johnson at Dior

Ms. Johnson arriving at the Dior show in Paris.

Zacharie Scheurer/Associated Press

March 5, 2015

Rick Owens's Warriors

Rick Owens's invitation came trimmed with a partial wig-length of (what one hopes was faux) hair. As his swaddled warriors tramped by, some with their faces foiled in gold or silver, some sparkling with stones, a pugilist glamour seemed to be the order of the day.

Then came those dresses fringed with flowing hair. Unsettling initially, but then again, what says glamour like a flip? Be sure your dry cleaner can condition. —MATTHEW SCHNEIER

Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times

A New Cosmos

Those who inhabit the #RickOwens world on the march #PFW — @VVFriedman

Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times

This is Babydoll

Babydoll utility at Paco Rabanne — @VVFriedman

Patrick Kovarik/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images

Kim Kardashian Lightens Up

"Kim Kardashian is at @Balmain and has dyed her hair platinum blonde. #PFW"

Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images

Carven Starts Anew

It was a new start Thursday morning for Carven, now in the hands of a pair of Frenchmen: Adrien Caillaudaud and Alexis Martial, who only this week joined the label from Iceberg in Milan. (Maybe it's a mark of his essential rightness for Gallic Carven that even when designing Iceberg, Mr. Martial lived in Paris.)

Mr. Caillaudaud had begun work a few months back to be ready for his co-conspirator's arrival, and though the mood backstage before the show was anticipatory, it wasn't frantic. "The pressure is here," Mr. Martial said, gesturing to his midsection, "but not here," he added, waving a hand at shoulder level.

Their Carven is the epitome of easy-to-swallow, gamine cute: Jane Birkin on the mood board, a real Parisian girl plucked from obscurity to lead the models' charge. (She's Heloise, 23, above center, a business student. "She appeared!" Mr. Caillaudaud said. "She said, 'I have to work, I'm not sure I can come.' We said, 'You have to.' ")

The line's previous steward, Guillaume Henry, has moved on to Nina Ricci, where he'll show his first collection on Saturday. His successors said that Carven under them would be an evolution of what he created, linked to what came before. "She is the same girl, I guess," Mr. Martial said. "She's only wearing pants now." —MATTHEW SCHNEIER

NOWFASHION

Solange Knowles

Ms. Knowles leaving the Carven show in Paris.

"Solange Knowles makes an #PFW appearance at @carven_paris." — @VVFriedman

Thibault Camus/Associated Press

Roland Mouret's Look

"The new coquette: flirty skirt, sheer shirt @RolandMouret #PFW" — @VVFriedman

Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times

March 4, 2015

Extravagant Eyeliner at Rochas

If spring/summer 2015 was the moment of no-makeup makeup, then fall/winter may be the season of "Can you see me now?"

March 4, 2015

Ifs, Ands or Bags at Lemaire

Still waters run deep. Though Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran of Lemaire seem stringently well-behaved, the accessories in their new Lemaire show suggested a ripple of something more mischievous beneath the surface.

Working again with the Chilean craftsman Carlos Penafiel, who has made leather bags for them before, Ms. Tran created a series of anatomically correct satchels resembling women's erogenous zones, fore and aft. A bag like that, Ms. Tran said, can be "very intriguing." "The Lemaire is not only an intellectual, wise Puritan," Mr. Lemaire added. "She could be naked under her coat." — MATTHEW SCHNEIER

Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times

A Unique Perspective

"The casual couture vision of @DriesVanNoten #PFW" — @VVFriedman

Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times

The Rich World of Dries Van Noten

"An eclectic, elegant army marches on at @DriesVanNoten #PFW" — @VVFriedman

Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times

Flares and Flairs at Yang Li

The fashion love affair with mega-flares continues in #PFW with Yang Li. — @VVFriedman

Moulded metallic fibers at Yang Li — @VVFriedman

NOWFASHION

March 3, 2015

A Childlike Quality at Jacquemus

Simon Porte Jacquemus called his collection L'Enfant du Soleil. His accompanying notes claimed he wanted a "a childlike woman again, not even, a sexless child."

That message may have been lost on some of the attendees, who leaned in and leered through their camera viewfinders when some of the bare-breasted models, their tops penciled on in bare outline with makeup, plodded by, barefoot. There was a naïve charm to parts, where the children-dressing-up theme and the babe-in-wilderness vibe best jelled.

Elsewhere, things got a bit, frankly, unbecomingly weird. But on the first day of Paris Fashion Week, after a pallid Milan, even the oddest felt bracingly fresh, like a cold water dip. A mad, dangerous courage is a childhood trait surrendered, in most cases, years too soon.

When Mr. Jacquemus emerged at the end, grinning and bristly, he was barefoot, too. He practices what he preaches, at least. He's walked a mile without their shoes. — MATTHEW SCHNEIER

Patrick Kovarik/Agence France-Presse -- Getty Images

A Spotlight on Anrealage

In his Anrealage collection, Kunihiko Morinaga played with light, experimenting with real and optical illusions. For example, at bottom right, an ultraviolet spotlight illuminates the black fabric to reveal an otherwise invisible floral pattern. In other looks, the spotlight effect was simulated, knit into a circular gradient (near right) or embroidered into chunky wool polka dots. — JOANNA NIKAS and ERIK HINTON

Photographs by Miguel Medina/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images

Who is in the Background?

Binx Walton and Jamie Bouchert photobomb Donatella Versace and Anthony Vaccarello at his show.

Francois Mori/Associated Press

March 2, 2015

Armani

"What to call the skirt/pant vision of @Armani. The spant? The skant? The Pirt! #MFW" — @VVFriedman

Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times

March 1, 2015

Missoni

"Army of '80s effects at @Missoni #MFW" — @VVFriedman

Giuseppe Cacace/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images

Salvatore Ferragamo's Sculptural Heels

Like the runway itself — carpeted with a neutral, graphic print accented with swaths of mustard yellow — Salvatore Ferragamo's fall 2015 collection was a patchwork of browns, blacks and creams, infused with pops of color. The heels were in stride with the sleek, graphic show, especially this standout, sculptural pair. — MALINA JOSEPH GILCHRIST

Firstview

Dolce & Gabbana's Romantic Buns

Italian men love their wine, their pasta and, most importantly, their mama. And two of Italy's best designers, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, dedicated their fall 2015 show to all mothers. The hair was romantic and ornate: sophisticated buns decorated with embellished gold clips and headbands. — MALINA JOSEPH GILCHRIST

Firstview

Emotions at MSGM

"Wearing your heart on your jacket at @msgm #MFW"

— @VVFriedman

Olivier Morin/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images

Matching at Salvatore Ferragamo

"When the coat matches the carpet, at @salvatoreferragamo #MFW"

— @VVFriedman

NOWFASHION

Backstage at Marni

See more scenes from the Milan Fashion Week photo diary of Alfredo Piola.

Alfredo Piola

February 28, 2015

The Only Pair

Rodolfo Paglialunga continued to honor the minimalist sensibility that lies at the heart of Jil Sander, but incorporated bold graphic prints and pops of color for fall 2015.

This lone yellow pair was a standout.

Read more here

Firstview

Taking a Bow

"A final (?) ovation for Peter Dundas and his team at Pucci." — @VVFriedman

"Peter Dundas says thanks to his team @EmilioPucci #MFW" — @VVFriedman

Andreas Rentz/Getty Images

Androgynous Beauty at Jil Sander

While the Jil Sander show was splashed with vibrant patterns and electric pops of color, the makeup artist Pat McGrath and hair stylist Guido Palau kept things understated — and decidedly un-girly.

"It's an androgynous look," McGrath told T before the show. "It's all about the brows."

The result was a clean look, which aligned nicely with Palau's take on the hair, which he described as "boyish, simple, very minimal."

Read more here

Filippo Monteforte/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images

Come-as-You-Are Hair at Bottega Veneta

It seemed there was something for everyone in Bottega Veneta's fall 2015 collection — and the hair was no exception.

The diverse cast of models sported a range of hairstyles: some short, some long, some with fringe and some slicked back.

Read more here

Giuseppe Cacace/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images

A Parade of Prints

"What's black and white and sequined all over? @EmilioPucci #MFW" — @VVFriedman

Andreas Rentz/Getty Images

The Austrian Influence

"Arthur Arbesser, Austrian designer in Milan, shows collection with Austrian pianist performing Austrian Schubert." — @MatthewSchneier

"Models sat on design-classic chairs by Austrian designers, in front of paintings by Austrian Hermann Nitsch. That's what you call a theme." — @MatthewSchneier

Matthew Schneier/The New York Times

Jil Sander's Geometric City

Cosmonaut in Colorful Skyscraper City: The Jil Sander Story. — @matthewschneier

"Pastel pillars at @JilSanderPR. Feel colored geometry coming on? #MFW" — @VVFriedman

Matthew Schneier/The New York Times

A '60s Muse Walks the Runway

"Sixties model/muse Benedetta Barzini, inspiration of Antonio Marras' show, walks the runway to the sound of applause." — @MatthewSchneier

Gio Staiano/NOWFASHION

February 27, 2015

Alphabet Soup at Versace

"Let's play find the 'Versace' in the dress" — @VVFriedman

Flavio Lo Scalzo/European Pressphoto Agency

Philosophy's Cape Crusade

"Way to make an exit dress/cape combo at Philosophy" — @VVFriedman

"When your Philosophy (di Lorenzo Serafini) is Put a Cloak on It." — @MatthewSchneier

Vanessa Friedman/The New York Times

The Ties That Bind

Sportmax interprets the belt, wrapping fall looks in licorice-whip leather cords.

See more scenes from the Milan Fashion Week photo diary of Piotr Niepsuj.

Piotr Niepsuj

February 28, 2015

Moschino's Cuddle-Worthy Jacket

"Teddy bear hoodie at @Moschino #MFW" — @VVFriedman

Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times

Bugs Bunny Makes a Cameo in Milan

"Cartoon army at @Moschino #MFW" — @VVFriedman

Matteo Bazzi/European Pressphoto Agency

Moschino

"Graffiti evening up close and personal at @Moschino #MFW " — @VVFriedman

"Spray-paint purse with graffiti gown at Moschino." — @MatthewSchneier

Matteo Bazzi/European Pressphoto Agency

This Is Not a Moschino Toy

"It's not an @Moschino toy; it's eau de toilette. #MFW"

"A Dada moment on each @Moschino seat #MFW"

— @VVFriedman

February 26, 2015

Paying Attention to the Details at Prada

"Note the accessories, at @Prada #MFW" — @VVFriedman

"I don't know if it's the colors, the shapes, or what, but I'm getting a John Waters "Hairspray" vibe from Prada." — @MatthewSchneier

NOWFASHION

Coats Fill the Fendi Runway

"Puffed-up puffa at @Fendi #MFW"

"All shearling style (coat, skirt, top) at @Fendi #MFW"

— @VVFriedman

NOWFASHION

MaxMara Prefers Blondes

"And so the Milan morning begins with a Marilyn Monroe homage at Max Mara #mfw" — @StuartEmmrichNY

Pietro D'Aprano/Getty Images

February 25, 2015

A Fierce Combat Boot

It wouldn't be Milan without a bit of studding — and some excess. At today's gloriously over-the-top Fausto Puglisi show, the designer straddled the line between the blingy late '80s and the onset of the early-'90s grunge era, with elaborate, Mr. T-worthy chain necklaces complete with hanging charms and oversize flannels over heavily embellished crop tops and kilts.

FIRSTVIEW

Alberta Ferretti

"@AlbertaFerretti goes into the woods #MFW" — @VVFriedman

Olivier Morin/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images

Enchanting, Loose Ponytails at Alberta Ferretti

"Mrs. Ferretti loves romance, so there's always that thing," said the stylist Guido Palau backstage at the designer's fashion show today in Milan. To add extra enchantment to the fall Alberta Ferretti runway, Palau used extensions to make sure the models had long, even strands, which he blow-dried simply and then arranged into a loose ponytail, achieved by pulling the elastic down to let the hair out around the face a little.

FIRSTVIEW

The New Gucci

Gucci's new girl (in Alessandro Michele's debut women's collection) rummaged through her mother's vintage closet for an eclectic mix befitting Margot Tenenbaum. Her unexpected accessories — glasses and berets — are the downtown response to last season's glamorous, sex-charged aesthetic for the brand. — MALINA JOSEPH GILCHRIST

Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times

Shoes at Gucci

These furry slippers, and variations of such, were an eye-catcher at Gucci. We report, you decide #mfw — @StuartEmmrichNY

Alessandro Bianchi/Reuters

Androgyny at Gucci

"Heeeeeeere's Gucci! Much like the men's collection (and with some men thrown in.)" — @MatthewSchneier

Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times

Salma Hayek-Pinault

Mrs. Pinault arriving at the Gucci show.

"I wondered why Salma Hayak was wearing a beret at Gucci today. Seems it was a bit of foreshadowing #mfw" — @StuartEmmrichNY

Stefano Rellandini/Reuters

February 24, 2015

Anya Hindmarch's Message

"Singing (real) construction workers at @anyahindmarch #LFW"

"A message on a coat at @anyahindmarch #LFW"

— @VVFriedman

Stuart C. Wilson/Getty Images

Andreja Pejic, Chapter 2

Ms. Pejic walked in the Giles show on Monday, the first runway appearance since her transition.

"I wasn't sure going into this what would happen with my career," she said in an interview in September. "There are agents that would tell me: 'Don't ever do it. Don't transition. You'll lose everything.' "

Ian Gavan/Getty Images

February 23, 2015

Through the Shadows

Despite the near-dark lighting at the Thomas Tait show, his jackets stood out in the shadows with nice shapes, front pouches and interesting hardware. — MALINA JOSEPH GILCHRIST

Nowfashion

Where Are the Clothes?

"Who told @TAITTHOMAS it was a good idea to have a show in the almost-dark? #LFW" — @VVFriedman

"Can't see the clothes in this photo? That's what it was like for us in the room as this odd show by Thomas Tait." — @StuartEmmrichNY

"Now and then, as models moved into the light, you would get a glance at outfit. Then, back to darkness. #ThomasTait" — @StuartEmmrichNY

Stuart Emmrich/The New York Times

Hunter, Not Your Average Rain Boot

"Leather and print and fur (faux?) in one piece of outerwear at @HunterBoots #LFW"

"Is @HunterBoots using boots to sell clothes, or clothes to sell boots? Unclear. #LFW"

— @VVFriedman

Leon Neal/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images

Christopher Kane Shines

"I'm a little surprised we don't see more of Christopher Kane on young Hollywood during awards season." — @StuartEmmrichNY

"Take away from @christopherkanestudio match your shoes to your bag and all the more fun if they are in a colored metallic @tmagazine #LFW #FW15" — @Malinagilchrist

NOWFASHION

A Nuzzle at Christopher Kane

"Those are bodies in a state of embrace at @ChristopherKane, in case you were wondering. #LFW" — @VVFriedman

Tom Jamieson for The New York Times

Burberry's Bohemian Vibe

"@Burberry's modern hippie in mirrors and fringe. #LFW" — @VVFriedman

Leon Neal/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images

Beauty At Burberry, Romantic (But Don't Call Them "Smoky") Eyes

The makeup artist Wendy Rowe built a layered beauty look for Burberry's fall 2015 show. "It's a folky collection that's full of eclectic patterns and prints," she explained backstage earlier today. "To complement that, I've created a patchwork of textures: a matte mouth, cashmere skin and iridescent eyes."

FIRSTVIEW

Sam Smith's Introduction to Fashion Week

"According to Sam Smith, @Burberry was his first-ever fashion show. #LFW"

"Sam Smith at @Burberry being totally ignored by photographers in favor of Cara Delevingne and Jourdan Dunn. #LFW"

— @VVFriedman

Toby Melville/Reuters

Burberry Finale

"During #Burberry final, Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell sang and clapped to 'My Sweet Lord.' Sam Smith stayed silent."

"At star-free #LFW, Burberry had best front row: Maggie Gyllenhaal, Sam Smith, Cara, Kate and (late arrival) Naomi."

— @StuartEmmrichNY

Gareth Cattermole/Getty Images for Burberry

At Home With Erdem

"The models at Erdem walked through a set that resembled a 1950s living room." — @StuartEmmrichNY

Stuart C. Wilson/Getty Images

February 23, 2015

Jonathan Saunders

"Lace-up boots and geometric lines at @SaundersStudio #LFW" — @VVFriedman

Photographs by Alastair Grant/Associated Press, except sunglasses detail by Tim P. Whitby/Getty Images

Comfy at Mary Katrantzou

At Mary Katrantzou, a visually interesting and cushy foam runway, which would have made for a soft landing had one of the wobbling models actually fallen onto it. The Pepto pink foam also appeared in the collection as details on clutch bags and trimmings of clothing. — MALINA JOSEPH GILCHRIST

Jack Taylor/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images

More Fur at Topshop

On another cold London day, the last thing the fashion set could get excited about is a pair of open-toed shoes — unless they're lined with faux fur, like these sandals from Topshop Unique. On the label's fall 2015 runway today, they were in step with the rest of the fur- and feather-accented collection. — MALINA JOSEPH GILCHRIST

Firstview

Lindsay Lohan's "Community Service"

Last night at the Gareth Pugh show, Lindsay Lohan, sitting in the front row, gave a brief interview to a reporter from WWD in which she talked about rebuilding her life in London, and how part of the rehabilitation was the community service work she was doing for Community Service Volunteers Positive Futures Project. (It was part of a sentence from the California courts after she crashed her Porsche into a truck in 2012.)

This morning, a London tabloid had a slightly different spin on that story, contending that part of her 240 hours of "community service" work was greeting fans at the stage door of ''Speed-the-Plow," the David Mamet play she starred in, as well as allowing volunteers to shadow her at work, and that the charity let her overstate her involvement and inflate her hours because of the publicity she would bring it.

The paper suggested she was violating the terms of her court agreement and could now face jail time back in Los Angeles. But a British politician quoted by the paper had another take, saying that Ms. Lohan should be thanked for exposing what a "joke" community service programs are, especially ones involving celebrities.

Ah, never a dull moment with Lindsay. — STUART EMMRICH

Ian Gavan/Getty Images

An Homage of Sorts

"The models, looking like warrior queens, were clad in black, perhaps homage to woman whose name is on this museum [the Victoria and Albert museum]." — @StuartEmmrichNY

Jack Taylor/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images

Gareth Pugh's Warriors

"The color red, shown in the St George's Cross on the models' faces, was one of 'both love and war,' said show notes." — @StuartEmmrichNY

Alastair Grant/Associated Press

Gareth Pugh's London Return

"10 years after his debut as a designer, Gareth Pugh soaks in applause greeting his successful return to London. #LFW"

"It's the 'most anticipated show of the London fashion season' a TV reporter intones into his mic, doing a pre-show stand-up at #GarethPugh"

— @StuartEmmrichNY

Stuart Emmrich/The New York Times

Romanticism at Simone Rocha

Mashing Victorian references up with asymmetrical lines, Simone Rocha demonstrated that opulent and enchanting dressing is best a little undone. And that hair ... as romantic at Botticelli's 'Birth of Venus. — MALINA JOSEPH GILCHRIST

Regis Colin Berthelier/NOWFASHION

London Shows Must Go On

It was hard not to feel a little B-list here in London today, the second day of London Fashion Week, after waking up to a busy Twitter feed filled with breathless reports of the Tom Ford show in Los Angeles the night before, and the starry crowd he attracted. Reese! Gwyneth! J. Lo! Beyoncé! Aaron Rodgers! (Huh?)

Even Anna Wintour, the editor of Vogue, usually a staunch supporter of British fashion, was missing from the front rows here, deciding instead to attend the Ford show and stay in L.A. through Sunday night's Oscars. Was she really going to miss Erdem and Paul Smith so she could attend the Vanity Fair party? Yes, it seems so.

Still the show (or shows) must go on. And today's calendar featured two rising stars on the London fashion scene: JW Anderson and Simone Rocha, as well as the Sunderland native Gareth Pugh, who is returning to the London schedule after showing in Paris for six years and then in New York last season.

At the JW Anderson show this afternoon, the seating was artfully arranged so that everyone in the room had a front row seat. "How democratic," one fashion editor said as he sat down, looking out over a crowd of largely unfamiliar faces. The clothes that soon followed (shows start on time here!) were a mix of brightly colored dresses, separates, pantsuits and even a few items that looked like ponchos, often paired with knee-high boots in bright yellow or fire-engine red. —STUART EMMRICH

Guillaume Roujas/NOWFASHION

Sibling's Subversive Yet Chic Punk Mohawks

Today in London, where punk influences are no stranger to the runway, Sibling presented a fall 2015 collection befitting young, irreverent rock stars — with hairstyles to match. — MALINA JOSEPH GILCHRIST

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On Oscars Weekend, Tom Ford Draws the Starriest Front Row of the Fashion Season

Tom Ford staged a fashion show in Hollywood on Oscars weekend, and it turns, out that, yes, everyone would show up for it.

Everyone like Gwyneth Paltrow.

""I love the fact that Tom's saying there aren't rules in fashion anymore, that there aren't seasons," she said at a pre-show cocktail party, making her way into the show at Milk Studios.

And Julianne Moore, nominated for the Academy Awards in the best actress category.

"It's pretty fun to be a spectator," she said from her front-row perch. But surely she's not a just a spectator from the front row, what with reporters bothering her and photographers begging for just one more shot?

"But I'm talking about Tom," she said, sounding relieved. "I'm not talking about myself."

And Scarlett Johansson.

""It's unexpected to see an event like this in Los Angeles more than anything," she said, sitting nearby Miley Cyrus, Jennifer Lopez and Amy Adams, and wistfully recalling the halcyon days of Los Angeles Fashion Week.

Read more about the star-studded front row, which included Reese Witherspoon, Jared Leto and Elton John.

Elizabeth Lippman for The New York Times

Bella Hadid's Runway Debut

Yolanda Foster is a proud mama. According to her Instagram and Twitter, the younger of her two daughters, Bella Hadid, made her runway debut at Tom Ford yesterday. Her older sister Gigi walked in the same show.

Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images for Tom Ford

Noteworthy Moments From New York Fashion Week

1st row, l-r: Erin Baiano for The New York Times, Regis Colin Berthelier/NOWFASHION, Amy Lombard for The New York Times. 2nd row, l-r: Erin Baiano for The New York Times, Jennifer S. Altman for The New York Times, Guillaume Roujas/NOWFASHION. 3rd row, l-r: Yana Paskova for The New York Times, Jennifer S. Altman for The New York Times, Yana Paskova for The New York Times. 4th row, l-r: Hiroko Masuike/The New York Times, Danny Kim for The New York Times, Guillaume Roujas/NOWFASHION

A Dose of Kink At Marc Jacobs

Upper Park Avenue is the domain of the doyenne. Marc Jacobs has held his shows at the Armory here time and again over the years, but this season the choice felt right on the (pardon) mark. This wasn't "downtown," girlish Marc. Guests on arrival were served glasses of vodka, neat. That's not kid stuff.

The collection, set to a screamingly loud instrumental score (creepy, anxious string-section sawing from "Requiem for a Dream"), was proper, precise, even matronly at times. Or would have been, had it not been amply seasoned, as several shows have been this season, with a dose of kink. Leather trim dangled from the models' belts, and their hands were sheathed in leather gloves. Their dresses tied at the back of the neck with long, trailing ribbons. Pull one, and they'd drop.

Still, it glittered darkly in the light, embellished with beads and with stones. The studded finale gowns aren't the kind you're likely to see on ingénues on Oscar night. You have to age into that kind of spine. On Marc's pal Jessica Lange, on the other hand. ... — MATTHEW SCHNEIER

Erin Baiano for The New York Times

More is Never Enough at Marc Jacobs

"For sheer perverse over-abundance, no one beats @MarcJacobsIntl #NYFW" — @VVFriedman

Erin Baiano for The New York Times

Christina Ricci at Marc Jacobs

"Christina Ricci walked for Marc in 2005 and was front row today. She learned how to strut from America's Next Top Model." — @BernsteinJacob

Erin Baiano for The New York Times

Marc Jacobs Set

"The set at @MarcJacobsIntl : Diana Vreeland's apartment, kind of. #NYFW" — @VVFriedman

"Marc Jacobs, backstage, talks about Mrs. Vreeland-inspired set. "A garden in hell," he says." — @BernsteinJacob

Erin Baiano for The New York Times

"Shiny, Shiny, Shiny Boots of Leather" at Calvin Klein

A snatch of the Velvet Underground's classic "Venus in Furs" (classic, at least, for a certain subset of art-rock aficionados) played on a loop during the Calvin Klein Collection show this afternoon. "Shiny, shiny, shiny boots of leather," rasped Lou Reed. So there were! Mr. Reed could've been narrating.

The footwear was in fact the standout of the show, the patent or haircalf Mary Janes in particular. Joining them were the legging-like tall boots in stretch napa, and loafer pumps with high visorlike projections. It set one (O.K., it set me) to thinking about leather, accessories and their many applications.

"Venus in Furs" was inspired, famously, by Leopold von Sacher-Masoch's 19th-century novel of the same name, about a relationship of the sort we now call, euphemistically, BDSM. (Sacher-Masoch lent his name to our word "masochism").

And New York Fashion Week this season happened to coincide with the release (and subsequent box-office triumph) of "Fifty Shades of Grey." Though that's likely a coincidence, it cast its kinky shadow over the week. Fashion execs are always on the hunt for their next target demographic. Should the fetish community await its courting? — MATTHEW SCHNEIER

L-r: Stephanie Colgan for The New York Times, Regis Colin Berthelier/NOWFASHION

Sienna Miller at Calvin Klein

"Sienna Miller rocking the bare-legged look in sub-zero temps at @CALVINKLEIN #NYFW" — @VVFriedman

Vanessa Friedman/The New York Times

A Twist on a Very French Chignon for J. Mendel

"She is that French Vogue '70s woman," explained the hairstylist James Pecis backstage, of his beauty inspiration for J. Mendel's fall/winter 2015 show. "Back then there was a reoccurrence of this type of look — all the girls were side parting and rolling their hair back." So for today's runway, he updated the classic chignon to complement the designer's ultra-feminine collection.

Read how to get this look

Ben Gabbe/Getty Images

Ralph Lauren: A New York Icon

It wouldn't be New York Fashion Week without Ralph. His show is unmissable, as much for his standing in the world as for the revolutionary fashion or novelty of his clothes. A Ralph show is — maybe should always be — a Ralph show, so easily identifiable, so (to borrow one of fashion's favorite clichés) iconic that you could probably peg one from space.

This one opened with an odyssey of taupe, journeyed through the Southwest and ended up in evening wear, the sort that might reappear on the Oscars red carpet this weekend — though likely not, as Mr. Lauren showed the last look, with furry gloves and a trapper's hat.

There was a passage of looks inspired by men's wear, too, some of them close cousins of those shown earlier at the company's men's presentation. The three-piece black leather suit available for him at Purple Label came down the runway for her; likewise the black evening boiler suit. Ricky Lauren, Mr. Lauren's wife, was wearing a one-piece jumpsuit herself in the front row.

She was huddled in with Kanye West, who was seated among the Lauren clan. (Last week, in an interview with Style.com, he waxed ecclesiastical when describing Mr. Lauren: "Ralph is the god," he said. "And that's all I want to say about Ralph.") A few seats down, and a couple Laurens away, sat the first lady of New York City, Chirlane McCray. She was so much a part of the family unit that when they leapt up to give the patriarch a standing ovation at the end of the show, she did too. Mr. Lauren offered her his hand.

"It was a wonderful show," she said afterward, as she was ferried backstage. "I'm really happy to be here celebrating Ralph Lauren. A New York icon, right?" — MATTHEW SCHNEIER

Regis Colin Berthelier/NOWFASHION

At Ralph Lauren

"A Lauren family sandwich: the gang sitting between Chirlane McCray (left) and Kanye West (right)", tweeted Vanessa Friedman. For more tweets

February 21, 2015

The Jeremy Scott After-Party

The fashion kids turn it up at Jeremy Scott's after party at Space Ibiza. Top, from left, Mr. Scott, Geordon Nicol, Leigh Lazark and DJ Mazurbate.

Amy Lombard for The New York Times

February 21, 2015

From Proenza Schouler, a Collection Fit for a Museum

Sometimes a location is a statement of intent. Proenza Schouler's Wednesday night was the (old) Whitney Museum, the fabulously imposing Marcel Breuer building on Madison Avenue and 74th, soon to be the temporary home of contemporary art for the Met. The implication was clear enough: The other guys are making fashion. Proenza Schouler is art.

The collection, an explanation from the designers ran, "takes its cue from the New York School," not only in the art itself — they mentioned the paintings of Helen Frankenthaler in particular, as well as the thinky conceptualism of Robert Morris — but the way that "the midcentury movement that shifted the focus of the art world to New York for the first time in art history."

It's not a big leap to make the parallel plain: Proenza Schouler is one of a very small number of designers who seem capable of exciting the kind of attention in Europe's fashion capitals as they do in New York. (Not for nothing was LVMH rumored to be circling last August, with an eye to acquiring a stake in the line.)

Coats and dresses both wrapped and gaped, revealing dotted tights. Shoes wound around the feet and closed in knots. The finale looks were practically pagan, spotted with embroidery and sprouting feathers.

The whole collection went down with a bit of shock, as contemporary art can do. Just ask contemporary artists and their patrons in the gallery and curatorial worlds. Plenty of them made the trek up Madison to take it in: the artists Tauba Auerbach, Emily Sundblad and Nate Lowman; the photographers David Sims and Craig McDean; Amy Greenspon, the gallerist; and Klaus Biesenbach, the local genius of MoMA's PS1. — MATTHEW SCHNEIER

Clockwise from top left: Erin Baiano for The New York Times, Erin Baiano for The New York Times, Regis Colin Berthelier/NOWFASHION

Peekaboo at Proenza Schouler

"The new wrap dress at @ProenzaSchouler #NYFW"— @VVFriedman

Regis Colin Berthelier/NOWFASHION

Anna Sui's Inspiration

"Anna Sui's been watching "The Vikings." "It's better than Downton Abbey," she said." — @MatthewSchneier

Matthew Schneier/The New York Times

One to Watch: LaQuan Smith

Among the undersung talents of NYFW: LaQuan Smith, whose tidy presentation at Drift Studio in Chelsea was built on boiled wool coats, peplum looks in lace or suede and neon-tinted frocks that were eye-popping yet paradoxically restrained — each piece shrewdly conceived, as Mr. Smith intended, for maximum hanger appeal.

Don't let this one fall between the cracks. — RUTH LA FERLA

Ruth La Ferla/The New York Times

An Option For the Red Carpet

"...and the @MarchesaFashion option I wish someone would wear to the Oscars #NYFW" — @VVFriedman

Regis Colin Berthelier/NOWFASHION

Jeremy Scott, Always Hot on the Trail of What's Next

Jeremy Scott's shows are free-for-alls. They are not events to turn up to fashionably late, unless you like finding your seat occupied, either by another eager guest or an equally eager gawker. The rapper ASAP Ferg was drawing attention this afternoon; Kanye West, who exited the show in a crowd of admirers so thick one spectator compared it to a prizefighter making for the boxing ring, drew even more.

Give Mr. Scott credit where it's due: he's always hot on the trail of what's next. Cast as models in his baby-doll show were several up-and-comers, even if they were almost unrecognizable in their plasticized dolly dresses and cutesy animal sweaters. Lucky Blue Smith, left, the Instagram sensation (586,000 followers strong), was one of the handful of male models in the show. Gigi Hadid, center, the reality-TV scion turned model, closed the show in its last and most cartoonish look.

But the one who stirred the audience to cheers was Matthew Mazur, right, so under the radar that many of the attendees weren't sure who he was. Mr. Mazur, a friend of Mr. Scott's, D.J.s under the evocative nom des decks Mazurbate. He'll ply his craft at Mr. Scott's after-party this evening. — MATTHEW SCHNEIER

Guillaume Roujas/NOWFASHION

Jeremy Scott

"From Carter's to the catwalk, @ITSJEREMYSCOTT does things with kiddie pj prints you'd never imagine. #NYFW" — @VVFriedman

Guillaume Roujas/NOWFASHION

The Great Gender Blur

There's been plenty of talk this week about the great gender blur, that deliberate erosion on the runways of a once rigid demarcation between conventionally feminine and masculine clothes.

That crossover was especially apparent in men's collections quietly venturing onto women's turf, that move an opportune nod to those progressive young urban women who have long been among the most avid consumers of luxury men's wear with a funky street-wear provenance.

The tendency was underscored in unorthodox, though commercially sound, collections like those of Public School; the more showily perverse Hood by Air; and Telfar, an under-the-radar label that judiciously threaded a handful of women's looks into the line.

To hear it from fashion insiders, it's high time. "The whole perception of sexual orientation is being challenged by the millenials," said Lucie Greene, the worldwide director of JWT Intelligence, the trend-forecasting arm of J. Walter Thompson. "Among the cohort of 12-to-19-year-olds defining Generation Z," Ms. Greene said, "the lines between male and female have become increasingly blurred, and we're seeing that reflected in the collections this week."

The notion of gender neutrality is being gradually accepted at retail. "Stores are discussing all the time how they can figure out a gender common denominator for their fashion assortments," said Ed Burstell, the managing director of Liberty of London.

Those stores are reacting, if languidly, to a well-established trend. "On the street these days," Mr. Burstell said, "you can't always tell who's a guy and who's a girl." — RUTH LA FERLA

Clockwise from top left: Telfar, Hood By Air, Public School, Public School, Hood By Air, Telfar Clockwise from top left: Ron Adar/Getty Images, Gio Staiano/NOWFASHION, Firstview, Firstview, Gio Staiano/NOWFASHION, Ron Adar/Getty Images

Inspired by Art at Delpozo

Wait, this is ready-to-wear in New York, right? But for the West Side Highway and Chelsea Piers looming outside the glass windows of the corrugated IAC Building, one could be forgiven, viewing the Delpozo show, for hallucinating that one was at the Paris couture. Very-young-seeming models progressed with stately slowness around a set of white-twigged trees, with enormous hair ribbons tied around their heads, wearing fantastical creations such as a Little Red Riding Hood cape, blouses with inflated balloon sleeves and pleated flower-adorned gowns.

"Smile with the eyes," a poster had advised them backstage. "Relaxed face. Show all your elegance."

Josep Font, the brand's creative director, said he had been inspired by two painters: Rhys Lee, who is Australian and "a little sinister," he said; and Andrey Remnev, who is Russian and "very romantic." Delpozo, meanwhile, is based in Madrid. The melting pot boileth over. — ALEXANDRA JACOBS

Gio Staiano/NOWFASHION

Delpozo Hair

At Delpozo, the hairstyles fit right in with the clothes, with a variation on big, dramatic headbands: in this case, tied as bows around a simple ponytail, with the excess stemming off like leaves.

Firstview

The Midas Touch at Michael Kors

Among the warm tweed coats and crystal-embellished pajamas was a single gold lamé dress, cut off at the calf to reveal matching gold peep-toe Mary Janes. — MALINA JOSEPH GILCHRIST

Firstview

The Week of Fur Continues at Kors

Pelts have been the talk of New York Fashion Week this season, whether starred or striped, slung over a shoulder or cut into a skirt. A full-length fur Michael Kors called a "fox bathrobe" (perhaps a nod to the nightie-like mohair dress worn beneath it) opened the Kors fall show.

From there, came fur bags, fur vests, fur lapels and muffs — one cozy cardigan even had fur pockets. Fur's defenders will argue that weather as cold as ours demands such extravagance. Though Mr. Kors himself looked anything but chilly. Out to take his bow, he had a glowing tone that suggested he'd skipped to the runway directly from the beach. — MATTHEW SCHNEIER

Top-bottom: Elizabeth Lippman for The New York Times, Guillaume Roujas/NOWFASHION, Elizabeth Lippman for The New York Times

Kate Hudson, Still a Catch

"Kate Hudson hasn't made a hit movie in years. But designers still want her for their front row. At Versace for couture and now at Kors. #nyfw" — @StuartEmmrichNY

Anna Palermo/NOWFASHION

A True Bedhead Look at Michael Kors

"If I could, I would have started last night," said the hairstylist Orlando Pita, who instructed the models to wash their hair last night and sleep with it slightly damp before arriving backstage at the fall/winter 2015 Michael Kors fashion show this morning.

Pita explained his goal was to achieve a disheveled look — the one you naturally have fresh "out of bed, almost like you didn't have time to get ready, putting an elastic on your hair and running out the door."

J.P. Yim/Getty Images

Taraji P. Henson

At Bibhu Mohapatra, cameras flashed around Taraji P. Henson, the star of Fox's latest television drama, "Empire." All around her, showgoers remarked how much they loved seeing Henson every week as Cookie.

Ms. Henson, at her first fashion show this season, wore a blue and white dress from the designer. Asked about her character's style, she went right for the statement-making hats. "Cookie will put on a hat and tilt it like Clint Eastwood when it's time to get tough." — ANGELICA ROGERS

Angelica Rogers/The New York Times

The Rodarte After-Party

A splash of Hawaiian color at Rodarte's party, where Kate (left) and Laura Mulleavy had two things to celebrate: their latest collection and Kate's birthday.

Krista Schlueter for The New York Times

Steve Buscemi ... At Fashion Week

The Nanette Lepore show drew a motley crew of actors and other boldface names, including John Slattery of "Mad Men," Aida Turturro of "The Sopranos" and Vanessa Bayer of "Saturday Night Live."

But the somewhat serene scene shifted when Arianna Huffington and Steve Buscemi took their seats in the front row. Mr. Buscemi was swarmed by photographers — some seemed to almost trample Mr. Slattery in order to get a peek. — SIMONE OLIVER

Read more: Celebrity Encounters at the Fashion Shows

Simone Oliver/The New York Times

February 21, 2015

Jerry and Jessica Seinfeld's Date Night

On Tuesday morning, Jerry Seinfeld was tweeting about his frustration with a personnel change for the Mets postgame studio show on the cable channel SNY.

By Tuesday night, he was sitting front row, with his wife, Jessica, at the Narciso Rodriguez show. Worlds apart. And what does Mr. Seinfeld think of this exotic land, a fashion show?

"It feels like New York," he said, thoughtfully. "I'm going to be in Wilkes-Barre, Pennsylvania on Thursday, and this is not Wilkes-Barre. When you live in New York, there are certain thing that remind you about it. Powerfully. And this is one of them."

And what exactly did he mean?

"The look on the faces," he said. "The exhaustion. The boredom. The suffering of winter. I love all of it."

He said he was referring to the sea of faces opposite him in front row. He was seated directly across from the editors at Vogue. He started to laugh.

"Look at all the eyes!" he said. "The eyes. It's a Bataan Death March till May."

Really, it's until mid-March, when fashion month concludes, but he had their number. Completely. — JOHN KOBLIN

Ben Gabbe/Getty Images

Celebrating Oscar de la Renta and His Successor

On one side of the runway sat the old guard, the perfectly coifed, expensively-furred women who made Oscar de la Renta a Park Avenue icon, women like Nancy Kissinger and Mercedes Bass. Barbara Walters was settled in their company; Annette de la Renta, the designer's widow, was too, seated beside Anna Wintour. Bill Cunningham, before the show, hurried over to give her a warm hug.

On the other side, facing them, was the new guard, the brightest stars among them — and the reason, in all likelihood, for the many photographers waiting outside — Taylor Swift and Karlie Kloss, a pair of skyscraper besties in complementary Oscar de la Renta dresses and clicking heels. Huma Abedin was just down the aisle.

The occasion Tuesday night was the first show by Peter Copping, Mr. de la Renta's successor, who took the reins of the house more abruptly than planned when Mr. de la Renta died in October.

And when the collection came down the runway in the center, ranging from smart-set daywear in georgette, bouclé and tweed to fairy-tale ball gowns in radzimir and duchess satin, each model sporting an impeccable updo with a faint resemblance to Mrs. de la Renta's own, it was met with warm applause. Guards old and new are not always in accord, but both sides agreed that Mr. Copping had done the founder proud. — MATTHEW SCHNEIER

Clockwise from left: Kathy Willens/Associated Press, Jennifer S. Altman for The New York Times, Jennifer Altman for The New York Times

Peter Copping Has Some Fans

"'Beautiful,' Karlie Kloss said, as this dress went by. 'Yessss,' answered Taylor Swift." — @StuartEmmrichNY

Jennifer S. Altman for The New York Times

Attached at the Hip

"Joint is jammed for Peter Copping's first show for Oscar de la Renta. Taylor Swift and Karlie Kloss sharing a seat." — @StuartEmmrichNY

Stuart Emmrich/The New York Times

A New Era for Oscar de la Renta

"Peter Copping's letter a few mins before his first Oscar de la Renta show." — @koblin

Read more about how Peter Copping is hoping to keep the Oscar de la Renta name alive.

February 21, 2015

It's All About the Details at Marc by Marc Jacobs

At Marc by Marc Jacobs, the designers Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley sent their models down a mazelike runway with the words "Solidarity" and "Our Choice" printed on the sides of maxidresses and button-downs, while "Fight the Power" blared above.

No-fuss accessories like studded creeper shoes, fanny packs, berets with grommet details and sturdy top-handle purses complemented the girl-power theme. Does anyone still think that feminism and fashion don't mix? — JOANNA NIKAS

NOWFASHION

Who Needs Boots When You Have a Driver?

On the most dispiritingly sloppy day of New York Fashion Week — slush turning every intersection into a treacherous lava flow – sensible style-world veterans tossed chic to the winds in favor of more rugged fare: moon boots, Eskimo stompers, mountaineering wedges and cozy Uggs.

But winter's perils were nothing to paparazzi magnets like Kim Kardashian, Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid, who preferred to ignore the weather, negotiating the slick terrain between their idling cars and the fashion trenches balanced on platforms no more substantial than a pair of sandals. — RUTH LA FERLA

L-r: RW/MediaPunch/IPx, Cindy Ord/Getty Images For Tory Burch, Craig Barritt/Getty Images

Rodarte Garden Grows

There was a floral theme at Rodarte this season, which the barren, Badlands-like set wouldn't necessarily have led you to imagine. But Kate and Laura Mulleavy's garden grows. Blossoms and what looked like abstract petals crawled across skirts and were printed on bodices and velvety tops, and, at the grand finale, came riotously spangled on evening wear.

Ironically, the standout pieces for this viewer were not the florals but the hunting-check parkas and jackets, the sort of hardy thing you might throw on to muck around the rosebushes in. (You'd likely take off your skintight lace-paneled trousers; the thorns would snag them.) So maybe the Mulleavys were presenting both the labor and its fruit. — MATTHEW SCHNEIER

Yana Paskova for The New York Times

Beauty at Rodarte

A bit of sparkle to perk up mid-Fashion Week eyes.

Yana Paskova for The New York Times

B.D.S.M. Returns to the Runways

Funny, how the hoariest clichés can take on new life with a fresh coat of paint. Case in point: "Fifty Shades of Grey," that old-fashioned bodice ripper tarted up in modern drag.

Seventh Avenue is riding the coattails of the unstoppable sensation that was the "novel," and is now the film, occasionally — and predictably — offering high-luxe interpretations of ancient B.D.S.M. standbys.

Harnesses, studs and ball bearings, strappy pants, corseted bodices, latex-look tees, dog collars and kinky boots have alighted (again) on the runways, trotted out reflexively at (from left) Alexander Wang, Altuzarra, Hood by Air, Jonathan Simkhai, Norma Kamali and others simply too fatiguing to run through here.

Time to give this chestnut a rest. — RUTH LA FERLA

L-r: Regis Colin Berthelier/NOWFASHION, Regis Colin Berthelier/NOWFASHION, Gio Staiano/NOWFASHION, Guillaume Roujas/NOWFASHION, Michael Goldman

The Casbah Way at Tory Burch

So it was snowing wet heavy flakes so it was 9 in the morning so buttons! While the rest of showgoers clomped around in rubber boots, the model Gigi Hadid bared her toes in metallic sandals, sitting front row at the Tory Burch show on Park Avenue.

Down a runway covered in Oriental carpets came more models, wearing an assortment of tapestry coats, pussycat-bow blouses and skirts with a smattering of sequins. The Clash's "Rock the Casbah" was playing, and the Upper East Side ladies, clutching their Starbucks coffee cups, were swaying ever so gently. — ALEXANDRA JACOBS

Regis Colin Berthelier/NOWFASHION

Last Night's Parties

Purple Magazine lights a fashion fire at the Standard, East Village hotel, with a little help from Uma Thurman, Natasha Lyonne and Kim Gordon.

Amy Lombard for The New York Times

The J. Crew Look

Some add a little color, or a little sparkle or funky prints for a little pop, this season Jenna Lyons of J. Crew adds all of the above.

Casey Kelbaugh for The New York Times

February 21, 2015

Seeing Red at Zac Posen

You'd be hard put to find a creature of Seventh Avenue as well connected as Zac Posen. "He makes gowns," one prominently seated stylist explained. Say no more.

Of course, Mr. Posen has decked out many, if not all, of the luminaries perched along the runway during his show on Monday in Vanderbilt Hall at Grand Central Terminal: Rihanna for starters, all but engulfed by a horde of snappers; Mary J. Blige; Katie Holmes; and Christina Hendricks, who come April, will reprise the role of Joan in the final season of "Mad Men."

Her russet hair upswept, Ms. Hendricks preened obligingly in a bell-sleeved jacket and glittery pencil skirt.

"Joan might have worn this skirt," she said. And, for sure, there was some crossover between the character's wardrobe and Ms. Hendricks's. "But," she added, "I would look crazy if I walked around in my costumes. "

The celebrity contingent more than made up for a paucity of A-list editors at Mr. Posen's show, while celebrity bloggers like Bryanboy and Chiara Ferragni of The Blonde Salad, filled in the ranks, spewing pointed opinions of their own.

"Here it's always about red-carpet dressing," Bryanboy said. "Give us some variety, please. I'd like to see some day clothes."

He got his wish, for a time, at least, in the flippy little skirts and matched coats and dresses paraded on the runway.

Those were eclipsed, in no time, though, by a succession of Oscars-worthy gowns and, in an unabashedly kitschy finale, by Naomi Campbell, who drifted down the runway in a ruby-red glitter gown that might have been whipped up for Dorothy in "The Wizard of Oz." — RUTH LA FERLA

An earlier version of this post rendered incorrectly the name of a blogger who attended Zac Posen's show and commented on the clothes. He is Bryanboy, not Bryan Boy.

Rebecca Smeyne for The New York Times

Dylan McDermott at Rag and Bone

In the half-dark before the Rag & Bone show at Spring Studios last night, when the seats were mostly but not fully filled and the lights not quite dimmed, a handsome spectator sat, escaping notice. Then those blue eyes flashed. Was that — in fact, it was — the actor Dylan McDermott.

Mr. McDermott, famous for "The Practice," but also known as a star of recent, grimly-named TV series like "Hostages" and "Stalker," is evidently a Rag & Bone fan, a fact confirmed by his daughter, Coco McDermott, sitting to his left. Ms. McDermott mentioned a new Rag & Bone store in Brentwood, Calif., as a favorite.

Father-daughter shopping exhibitions, especially in the teen years, can be perilous missions. A reporter wondered whether the McDermotts had avoided that fate and was told that they had. "When we shop together, that means I buy her clothes," Mr. McDermott said.

And in return, does Ms. McDermott save her father from fuddy-duddy dad dressing?

"She'll suggest," Mr. McDermott said of her input.

His daughter looked over and laughed. In a slightly more private tête-à-tête with that reporter, she clarified: "I help." — MATTHEW SCHNEIER

Elizabeth Lippman for The New York Times

Somber Beauty at Thom Browne

Thom Browne's show opened with an inscrutable tableau: white-clad women on white-sheeted gurneys, attended by white-coated men who stripped off their lab coats to reveal white jackets embroidered with angels' wings as white snow fell.

That was just preamble. The gurneys were carted off, and the collection that followed came all in mourners' black. It was intricate, textured and gorgeous, if syrup-slow; Mr. Browne is the sole plyer of a runway style you might call transportingly sedate.

His presentations, more than most, remind you that it takes a village to raise a fashion show — especially ones on this operatic scale. Mr. Browne's the ringleader, and mourning becomes Thom. But he does get the most out of his collaborators. In particular, the effect this afternoon would have been much diminished without Stephen Jones's hats and veils. — MATTHEW SCHNEIER

Top: Anna Palermo/NOWFASHION, Bottom: Yana Paskova for The New York Times

Thom Browne's Imagination

No iPhone photo can do justice to the handiwork and imagination in this supremely gorgeous Thom Browne show #NYFW — @StuartEmmrichNY

It's seems likely that Thom Browne's show was an homage of sorts to 'Death Becomes Her' at the Met, where boyfriend Andrew Bolton works. — @StuartEmmrichNY

Yana Paskova for The New York Times

A Fierce Look at Maria Cornejo

"In an age of sameness, it's luxurious to be a true independent," was Maria Cornejo's pronouncement of the season. That's a rebel yell for an independent designer, and she conjured a band of warrior women to back it up. Who else would match models' mohawks to the mohawks jutting off the back of their boots? Her fierceness resonates.

The actress Emily Mortimer watched from one bench, hand in hand with her husband, Alessandro Nivola; Cindy Sherman, from one nearby. — MATTHEW SCHNEIER

Richard Termine for The New York Times

A Delay at Donna Karan

Into the snoods! Even though at least eight staff members of Vogue were already seated, including Anna Wintour in a red-trimmed coat and Grace Coddington wearing vivid emerald-green sneakers, Donna Karan's publicity team "held the curtain," as it were, until the Broadway star Bernadette Peters arrived, shielded by minders.

The clothes that followed were a study in blacks and golds and folds and over-the-shoulder stoles, which have been popping up in many places, from Creatures of the Wind last week to 3.1 Phillip Lim an hour earlier. With hemline consensus obsolete, perhaps designers are convening wild-eyed in star chambers before the shows to conspire on accessories? — ALEXANDRA JACOBS

Rahav Segev for The New York Times

Shouldering the Burdens of Fashion

Maybe it was the influence of all those cross-body bags being flaunted by bloggers and cool girls around town, or the ubiquitous infinity scarf, repurposed last season as a bandoleer. Whatever its origin, this slanty look has made the transfer to fall runways in the form of a fur banner slung across the chest and extending to points south.

At shows like (from left) Creatures of the Wind, Ohne Titel, Jason Wu and Thakoon, where it was rendered in curly lamb, the freshest, most offhand way to work a pelt was to fling it over a shoulder or crosswise to the hip. — RUTH LA FERLA

L-r: Regis Colin Berthelier/NOWFASHION, Guillaume Roujas/NOWFASHION, Guillaume Roujas/NOWFASHION, Gio Staiano/NOWFASHION

Calm Before the Storm

Phillip Lim before his show.

Casey Kelbaugh for The New York Times

The Olsen Twins' Aesthetic at The Row

A cloister-like solemnity seemed to come over visitors to the Row. They filed toward the elevators of the Seagram Building, dressed to the last in muted tones of slate and clay, as befitted the studiedly hushed aesthetic of the designing Olsen twins.

A similarly chaste, overwhelmingly civilized mood seeped into the cavernous presentation space above, all poured concrete floors and windows affording a view of the grid formed by neighboring Midtown buildings. Waiters hovered, offering coffee and crumpets as guests made their way to their seats to view a penitential procession replete with vestal satin evening robes and sweaters draped like chasubles over virginal white shirts.

Elsewhere this week, a louche '70s spirit flavored the collections, but here on Park Avenue, '90s pieties ruled. — RUTH LA FERLA

Vanessa Friedman/The New York Times

Fresh Takes on an Old Standby: Black Eyeliner

Black lines are defining the eyes in unexpected ways at the fall/winter 2015 shows. Last Thursday at Coach's presentation, a seamless, symmetrical cat-eye immediately drew attention; the black stroke went across the top lid and back down halfway along the lower lid, with just enough of a pull at the corner of the eye.

From left: Coach, Cushnie et Ochs and DKNY.

See how to get the look here

Firstview

Tommy Hilfiger's Game Day

Models got probably their biggest workout of the week at Tommy Hilfiger's show, held at the Park Avenue Armory, which had been transformed into a football stadium — around which they took a long lap in flippy little skirts and numbered jerseys (followed at the end by Mr. Hilfiger, clutching a football helmet).

In the crowd, closely trailed by television cameras, was an unlikely pile-up of the demi-famous including Victor Cruz, the wide receiver for the New York Giants; Rita Ora, the singer; and Olivia Palermo, the socialite and erstwhile reality-television star. Overhead loomed large screens broadcasting the action on the floor in high definition. As at actual sporting events, the view there seemed better, sharper than the one from the stands. — ALEXANDRA JACOBS

Guillaume Roujas/NOWFASHION

Don't Stop the Music

Despite sub-zero temperatures, the parties kept going Sunday night. Diane von Furstenberg kept it seductive at her meatpacking district studio, and Opening Ceremony brought out the cool kids to Happy Ending.

See more here.

Devin Yalkin for The New York Times

February 21, 2015

Opening Ceremony Show or Spike Jonze Exhibition?

Note the obscured face on that T-shirt. That belongs to Spike Jonze, 35-mm photographer, film and music video director, Oscar-winning screenwriter and, increasingly, contributing pal to Opening Ceremony.

Last season, Mr. Jonze interpreted the Opening Ceremony story, staging a one-act play on the retailer-turned-label's history for its show; this season, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon returned the favor, using their fall presentation to curate a one-night only show of his early photos, 1985-2005. (The eagle-eyed could spot Chloë Sevigny, Keanu Reeves, Björk, the Beastie Boys, BMX legends and Kurt Cobain throughout.)

The photos lined the walls, but that wasn't all. Ms. Lim and Mr. Leon cut up outtake photos to make prints for the O.C. garb, and subjected doodled-on contact sheets to the same treatment. — MATTHEW SCHNEIER

Hiroko Masuike/The New York Times

A New Face

"Newbie model Charlie James, 17. His braces won't come off till he's 20. I'm encouraging him to make that his brand," — @MatthewSchneier

Matthew Schneier/The New York Times

Knitwear is Growing ... Literally

No question, knitwear these days is a growth industry — literally. Designers this season keep spinning their yarns, fashioning them into overgrown renditions of the conventional sweater.

One surreal interpretation was seen at Lacoste: a tennis sweater with tails. Quick to leap on the trend, Coach showed a lofty variation on the heritage cable-knit, an oddball hybrid of fisherman's sweater and tunic, its hem extending nearly to the knees. Wes Gordon stretched that old standby, the turtleneck, to thigh-skimming proportions. And Kanye West offered outsize variations on the Army-issue pullover ripped and shredded for an intimidatingly post-apocalyptic feel, as well as an outsize sweatshirt with trailing sleeves.

Norma Kamali's elongated batwing sweater appeared to have been photographed in a fun-house mirror; and Jonathan Simkhai's ankle-length turtleneck was as shaggy as they come — the fashion equivalent of a luxury bathmat. — RUTH LA FERLA

L-r: Regis Colin Berthelier/NOWFASHION. Guillaume Roujas/NOWFASHION, Guillaume Roujas/NOWFASHION, Guillaume Roujas/NOWFASHION

Hood by Air Blurs Gender

Hood by Air celebrates extremity in self-expression. A show with looks as outré as this one is never going to have the usual men's show no-makeup makeup look (a dab of moisturizer, maybe a spot of pimple concealer). But at the fall show on Saturday, Shayne Oliver and company went for broke. They commissioned custom grilles to look like orthodontic braces; threaded them through with padlocks and piercing-parlor barbells; and covered the models' heads, faces and hair with shimmering stockings. (In some cases, facial hair or tufted eyebrows were drawn or glued on top.)

The show, though nominally men's wear, included some women's looks and female models, though the stockings made it hard to tell who was (or identified as) what. Was that a conscious choice, Mr. Oliver was asked backstage. "Definitely," he replied. — MATTHEW SCHNEIER

Jennifer S. Altman for The New York Times

From Tweets to Runway

Was the latest collection of DKNY crowdsourced? Tweets about what New York symbolizes were superimposed on a dark screen looming behind the runway before the show. The 40 outfits that eventually came out contained both low V-necks and deep funnel ones; jewel tones and black; tapered trousers and wrap skirts. "There's Donna!" hissed someone in the first row. But no: It was the designer's tawny daughter, Gabby Karan DeFelice. — ALEXANDRA JACOBS

Regis Colin Berthelier/NOWFASHION

Tracy Reese Knows How to Layer

Can there ever be such a thing as too many accessories?

Tracy Reese clearly decided not, layering headphones (by Monster) over sunglasses (by Selima Optical) atop arm warmers and over-the-knee socks at her show, which also layered ponchos over knit antelope-patterned trousers; melanged black and white prints; mixed up thick sweaters and flippy skirts; added lace to lurex; and otherwise offered up a little bit of something for everyone — including smoke for atmosphere.

The latter touch complicated the endless Instagramming of the front row, but made for a more pointed message (once you could see the idea through the smog): This is one designer who would just as soon let her customers dance to their own tune. — VANESSA FRIEDMAN

Rebecca Smeyne for The New York Times

Louche Luxury

The scene at Altuzarra from the New York Fashion Week photo diary of Nina Westervelt.

See more here.

Nina Westervelt

'70's Style Gets a Lift

A deft way to punctuate the belled trousers and myriad '70s-inflected looks descending on fall catwalks: by taking a cue from Derek Lam, whose sumptuously felted suits, coats and separates gained a lift from square-toe pumps. Kinky yet curiously proper, those patent leather pilgrims. — RUTH LA FERLA

Firstview

Ponytails at Derek Lam

Inspired by a pair of bell-bottom trousers from Derek Lam's fall 2015 collection, the hairstylist Orlando Pita mimicked the wide shape in a textured ponytail.

For a little extra interest: "We have this accessory in the hair, in the ponytail, which women would use in the '70s when I went to high school," Pita said. "We made a streamlined New York version for today."

Read more here

Firstview

Baby It's Cold Outside and Inside

One new way to blanket the runway: with an outsize cloudlike puffer coat. The Public School designers Dao Yi Chow and Max Osborne rendered their fly-away versions in nylon, the standout being a clay-tone poncho sure to be on insiders' wish lists for fall. — RUTH LA FERLA

Stephanie Colgan for The New York Times

Beanies at Public School

Beanies backstage. Beanies on the runway. I think we have enough critical mass. It's a fashion trend. — VANESSA FRIEDMAN

L-r: Stephanie Colgan for The New York Times, Vanessa Friedman/The New York Times

All-Star Games

On Saturday night, Mary J. Blige unwound at the Ludlow Hotel, LeBron James and Russell Westbrook partied with their all-star cohort, and Questlove and Nas performed for ASAP Rocky.

See more photos here

Amy Lombard for The New York Times

Moncler's Brooklyn Valentine

How did Brooklyn become an acceptable location for New York fashion events?

"We were looking for a high ceiling," said the Moncler Grenoble chief executive Remo Ruffini, a few minutes before his show at the Brooklyn Navy Yard.

But what about the mess from last February? A year ago, the Moncler show, held at the Hammerstein Ballroom, ran so late that many editors barely made it to the Alexander Wang show, New York fashion's first foray to the Duggal Greenhouse in the Brooklyn Navy Yard.

That was regarded by all as a never-do-it-again mistake. Plus, the Altuzarra show is starting in, oh, about an hour.

"I know it's not very convenient for everyone to come here, but it's amazing," he said. "We need 12 or 13 meters up."

Eighteen meters (about 60 feet), someone barked next to him.

"Eighteen, no?" he replied, gesturing toward the elaborate set behind him.

Brooklyn's not going anywhere. — JOHN KOBLIN

Stephanie Colgan for The New York Times

House of Beckham

"A family affair at @victoriabeckham: David and the kids and Anna Wintour and daughter Bee. — @StuartEmmrich

Victoria Beckham's show kicks off the fourth day of New York Fashion Week. See today's lineup here

Hiroko Masuike/The New York Times

Saddle Bags Debut at Altuzarra

The surprise of Joseph Altuzarra's fall collection on Saturday night: the handbags, the first collection the designer has offered (and proof, no doubt, of the ambitions of Kering, his new investors, to expand the brand to play with the big boys). They came in saddle shapes, trailed braided straps and had gold hardware inspired, according to the designer, by vintage lighters. Afterward, the editors in the crowd were aflutter. — MATTHEW SCHNEIER

Regis Colin Berthelier/NOWFASHION

February 21, 2015

Alexander Wang's Mighty Buzz

Neither snow nor rain can keep celebrities from their appointed front-row rounds. They're as reliable as the Postal Service every Fashion Week — maybe more so. It was snow-globe pretty (and slick-ice treacherous) as the flakes fell, but the fashion world headed to Alexander Wang's show at a pier by the East River, and Nicki Minaj, Natasha Lyonne, Zoë Kravitz and the Kardashian-Wests (Kim, Kanye and North) were right there with them. Admittedly, their security details are somewhat fiercer.

For them and for us all, Mr. Wang presented a dark, sludgy collection with studs and thick-soled boots. The word "goth" got thrown around; likewise "rock." What do they even mean? The soundtrack was Gesaffelstein, the French techno wizard, so take from that what you will. Whatever it was, it marched with a mighty clomp and the buzz afterward was warm and excited.

But there was no time to tarry. The crowd fled to its next show — including Mr. West and Ms. Kardashian, who high-tailed it to Robert Geller's men's wear show, like any other hardworking editor. — MATTHEW SCHNEIER

From top: Malina Gilchrist, Yana Paskova for The New York Times, Regis Colin Berthelier/NOWFASHION

Gothic Makeup at Alexander Wang

Inspired by heavy metal, the makeup artist Diane Kendal and the hairstylist Guido Palau together created a beautifully gothic and gloomy look this evening at Alexander Wang.

"I'm keeping the skin very pale, with a dark brown and gray greasy feel on the eye," Kendal explained — even going so far as to create a hint of dark circles under models' eyes. Palau, for his part, sought to create as lank a hairstyle as possible: heavy and oily, but with a deconstructed, downtown intentionality.

A little teasing completed the messy look — a raven like do that matched the darkness of Wang's collection. See how to get the full look here

Valerio Mezzanotti

Baby North's Front Row Outfit

"That's North West in custom made @AlexanderWangNY studded skirt to match the collection," — @VVFriedman

Anna Palermo/NOWFASHION

Kesha Goes to the Movies

Sitting on a couch, away from models and cameramen circling the jam-packed backstage area of Christian Siriano's show, Kesha was discussing her plans for Valentine's Day night.

"I'm going to see 'Fifty Shades of Grey' with a bunch of ladies," she said. "We have our tickets, and we are going to be like a bunch of horny old ladies."

Most of the ladies that will her accompany her are her dancers, she said. There were eight tickets purchased in all. Coco Rocha, with her hand on her baby bump, sat on a neighboring couch. She didn't say a word. (The baby is due in the spring.)

And has Kesha read the book?

"Of course I did!" she snapped back. — JOHN KOBLIN

Guillaume Roujas/NOWFASHION

Dion Lee

See more scenes from T Magazine's New York Fashion Week photo diary. See more

Sonny Vandevelde

Try to Restrain Yourself

"Invitation to Sunday's Hood By Air show, themed DADDY, a fur-lined daddy paddle. Don't forget your safe word!" tweeted Guy Trebay

Guy Trebay

Trend Watch: The Neck Has Gone Undercover

Once thought of as a faintly erogenous zone, the neck has gone demurely undercover, masked, in the latest round of shows, by emphatically high collars — persuasive alternatives to the ubiquitous turtlenecks of seasons past.

Exaggerated versions of the traditional band or ruff emerged at the men's shows in Milan last month, making an especially dramatic statement at Gucci, where tailored coats were counterpointed with swashbuckling ruffs.

But that bit of frippery had nothing on the high-rise variations displayed on New York runways this week: banded types that mimicked neck restraints, some standing as tall as six inches from clavicle to chin.

Simultaneously futuristic and romantic, collars varied from the stiffly formal funnels at VFiles and the beribboned versions at Cushnie et Ochs, to towering turtlenecks at Tome, and a cadet-like rendition at Creatures of the Wind, a starchy touch that lent the collection an, um, bracing air of discipline. — RUTH LA FERLA

From left: Creatures of the Wind, Tome, VFiles, BCBG, Cushnie et Ochs. Photos: (L-R) Regis Colin Berthelier/NOWFASHION, Gio Staiano/NOWFASHION, Stefania Curto for The New York Times, Gio Staiano/NOWFASHION, Gio Staiano/NOWFASHION

Caption This: Rihanna and Karl Lagerfeld

What were they really talking about?

"We were talking about his cat," she said. "His cat. He loves, I know, that sounds...."

She paused and stared.

"Is that normal?"

She was reassured that was perfectly normal.

"I thought it was normal," she said. "I never thought he'd be showing me pictures of his cat. On his phone!"

Read the full interview here

Danny Kim for The New York Times

Socks and Slits at Suno

Black socks have had an image problem since the Eliot Spitzer scandal, but they were emphatically rehabilitated on the runway of Suno, the brand of Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty named, in the pattern of today's shrinking-violet young designers, after Mr. Osterweis's mother.

Above the socks fluttered carwash hems and slits cut up to "yikes" territory but made modest with mesh. The designers said they were inspired by the madwoman in the attic in "Jane Eyre." It would seem she tripped over a trunk containing 1970s ribbed turtlenecks and Fair Isle sweaters. — ALEXANDRA JACOBS

Sonny Vandevelde

Last Night's Parties

On Friday night, Fendi celebrated a store opening on Madison Avenue. Martha Stewart refused to take a selfie, Erykah Badu D.J.'ed the party and Rihanna wore a shimmery dress. See more photos here

Danny Kim for The New York Times

Morning

Happy Valentine's Day, darling! I got you a full day of shows.

New York Fashion Week waits for no displays of affection and chocolate. The shows must go on. And so they do with collections from Alexander Wang, Altuzarra, Herve Leger, Christian Siriano and more. — MATTHEW SCHNEIER See more

Gio Staiano/NOWFASHION

February 21, 2015

D.J. Erykah Badu

Ms. Badu keeps the vibe old school with '90s house music at the Fendi store opening on Madison Avenue.

Denny Lee

Would Rihanna Wear This?

Adam Selman knows bad girls. He's the unofficial outfitter of choice of bad girl Rihanna, whose tour costumes he has designed. Rihanna didn't make today's show, but several of her inheritor bad girls did, including the popettes Kesha and Zendaya. And his show was inspired by schoolyard bad girls, those John Waters conjured in "Female Trouble," his trash masterpiece of 1974. (Which should be more widely acknowledged as a fashion classic: a film whose tragic denouement unspools all because of a Christmas without cha-cha heels.) Cookie Mueller, who starred in several of the early Waters films, "was the beauty muse for this season," Mr. Selman said backstage, which explained the rat's-nest beehives Jimmy Paul teased up.

After the girls (well, mostly) made the runway round, they circled back to loiter at the set-up schoolyard gates. They all had, one noticed, matching sets of Manolo Blahnik cha-cha heels. Crisis averted. — MATTHEW SCHNEIER

Yana Paskova for The New York Times

Practical Magic at Cynthia Rowley

It was so cold in New York today that Cynthia Rowley's choice to present her collection on video rather than the city's chilly perimeters, as most designers did, seemed eerily prescient. And there was something eerie about the clothes, too: lots of billowing, shimmery black and purple; cobwebbed lace, brocade and witchy boots, all under the gusts of a wind machine — very "Total Eclipse of the Heart." — ALEXANDRA JACOBS

William Eadon

Orley for Her (For the First Time)

The knitwear designers of Orley (brothers Matthew and Alex Orley, and Matthew's wife, Samantha) established themselves as men's designers with a predilection for the tried and true — to put it politely. "Our guy was always the idea of shopping your grandfather's closet," said Alex backstage before their show Friday. But at trunk shows for their wares, they noticed that women came to buy for their husbands and left with pieces for themselves. "More for themselves," Alex added, to the extent that they added an ever smaller size to the line. Now they're giving the women a dedicated offering of their own, one shown alongside the men.

Orley's women's wear began, like their men's, entirely in knit: some pieces hand-knit in New York, others made in Italy, in retro-ish styles and shapes. They're campaigning for a return of the twin set, albeit in a buzzy green patterned jacquard. The trio reported that they already have a full day of women's buying appointments scheduled with interested stores. For tomorrow. "Valentine's Day," Matthew said with a glance at his wife, who didn't appear to mind. — MATTHEW SCHNEIER

Regis Colin Berthelier/NOWFASHION

Karlie in Motion

"Call me crazy, but Karlie has slowed her usual gallop down to a virtual crawl at Jason Wu. What can it mean?" tweeted Matthew Schneier

Elizabeth Lippman for The New York Times

Wes Gordon's Biggest Fan

Behind every designer, there's Mom. At Wes Gordon's show today, Diane Gordon, his own platinum-haired mother was in high spirits. "He gets 100 percent of his talent from me," she said with a wink.

Mrs. Gordon, who transmitted to her son, among other things, her fondness for monochromatics and long slender pants, was especially partial to the designer's short jackets, turtleneck sweaters and white-striped gray mink.

Making her way backstage at the close of the show, she confided, "I can't wait to shop." — RUTH LA FERLA

Stefania Curto for The New York Times

Victor Cruz on Taking More Fashion Risks

"Victor eats clothes!" Rachel Johnson, the stylist who guides Victor Cruz in his choice of rigs, said backstage at Perry Ellis on Friday.

And it's true, the Giants' star wide receiver said. "I do."

Mr. Cruz has been fixated on fashion since boyhood, long before he became a regular in front rows here and in Europe, anointed as a style ambassador by Anna Wintour. He has turned out to be one of the rare sports celebrities with a knack for looking as if the designer clothes he favors are not wearing him.

"I went to a Catholic high school," Mr. Cruz said, referring to Paterson Catholic High School in Paterson, N.J. "One day a week we were allowed to wear our own clothes, and I would plan everything in advance. I used to beg my mother for a new pair of shoes."

Ms. Johnson — a maternal presence herself, despite her Amazonian stature (she towers over Mr. Cruz, though barely comes up to the shoulders of another client, LeBron James) — grinned in approval.

"After the first year of Cruz, I said, 'It's time to take some risks, take some chances'," Ms. Johnson said.

What kind of risks, they were asked?

"Three-piece suits," Mr. Cruz said. "I had never owned a three-piece suit before, never even tried one on in my life." — GUY TREBAY

Vivien Killilea/Getty Images

Last Night's Parties

ASAP Ferg (left) at an party at Westway celebrating Astrid Andersen's first bespoke presentation in New York.

See more parties.

Amy Lombard for The New York Times

February 21, 2015

Men's Furs at Astrid Andersen

The word "bespoke" in men's wear, and especially London men's wear, usually suggests gentlemen suited and booted. Astrid Andersen, the Danish designer based in London, doesn't go in for that. She's an unrepentant maximalist who's dialing streetwear styles up to the nth degree of luxury — and now, with the Astrid Andersen Bespoke line she brought to New York last night, layering it richly with fur.

According to her reps, she plans to begin offering custom fur outerwear for her highest-rolling customers, who cluster (go figure) in the United States and the Far East. Word has it that there's an especial interest in her work, weather notwithstanding, in Los Angeles. — MATTHEW SCHNEIER

Regis Colin Berthelier/NOWFASHION

Kanye West for Adidas

Well, give Kanye West this: He knows fashion shows do not start on time.

Fashion editors were given word that Mr. West's Adidas show on Thursday, the first day of New York Fashion Week, would start promptly at 4 p.m. The doors to the show didn't open until 4:25 p.m., among a sea of grumpy editors and fans, a surprising number of them breaking into yawns during the wait. Said one, after standing in the same place for a half-hour: "Jesus." Or maybe that was "Yeezus"?

The show, which started 50 minutes late, certainly had the front row of the year so far: Beyoncé, Jay Z, Kim Kardashian, Anna Wintour, Alexander Wang, Sean Combs, Rihanna (Justin Bieber was also there, though it was unclear if he was in the second or third row). There was one other prominent member of that front row, but she got the boot: Mr. West's one-year-old baby, North. During the show, Ms. Kardashian had to get up and whisk North backstage after she couldn't quit her crying. — JOHN KOBLIN

Casey Kelbaugh for The New York Times

Before the Kanye West Show

Kim Kardashian preps her sibling Kylie Jenner, who was a model in the Kanye West show, as Mr. West and Anna Wintour chat before the Adidas collaboration show.

Casey Kelbaugh for The New York Times

Kanye West's Front Row

"Power hip hop turn out for @Adidas x Kayne west presentation not shown-Rhianna," tweeted Malina Gilchrist, T Magazine's Market Director.

Casey Kelbaugh for The New York Times

Sarah Jessica Parker at Tome

Tome's squadron of cheerleaders, artist/muses like the Iranian-born Shirin Neshat and the Belgian choreographer Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker, who inspired the fall line, extends these days to Sarah Jessica Parker, who sat front and center at the show at Lincoln Center, loosely draped in a calf-grazing pink dress by the Tome designers Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin.

Ms. Parker, who had collaborated with the partners on the shoes paraded throughout the show, had plenty of reason to crow, but she confined her remarks to exuberant praise for the team.

"They have their own voice," she said. "They're not inclined to look around and see what everybody else is doing,"

Nor are they smug, Ms. Parker said. "It's not like they're saying: 'Look look what we did. We're breaking the rules.'"

Instead, Mr. Lobo and Mr. Martin simply ignored them, counterpointing easy knit tunics against stiffened patent leather jackets; teddy-bear furs with brocades; and, most covetable, perhaps, a lineup of shirtlike white cotton coats and dresses that dropped in an unbroken line from shoulders to calves.

"Those clothes have a sexy way of concealing the female body," said Leandra Medine, the irreverent voice behind Man Repeller. She looked subtly seductive herself in a pillowy white Rachel Comey jacket and ultrawide emerald Delpozo trousers. — RUTH LA FERLA

Left: Larry Busacca/Getty Images For Mercedes-Benz FRight: Gio Staiano/NOWFASHION

Duckie Brown Unzipped

The overriding impression on walking into the Duckie Brown show this afternoon was that there was more and there was less. More to see, and more to navigate: In plain sight, facing the rows of seats, were racks of clothes, milling assistants and a phalanx of models waiting to be dressed, glossed and pressed into service. What there was less of was any distinction between the backstage and the runway. The walls had been removed — and so, for that matter, had a good number of front-row seats to accommodate the new set-up.

"We just want to be transparent," said Daniel Silver, one half of Duckie Brown. "These are challenging times — financially, emotionally. Look at the world. Instead of covering up? Let's be transparent and let's be hopeful."

"And," he said, after a pause, "we want to see a show for once."

The peek behind the runway curtain, such as it is, isn't a new gambit. Its most famous iteration was the work of Isaac Mizrahi, immortalized in the 1995 documentary "Unzipped." (Grant Woolhead, Duckie Brown's stylist, had mentioned that film to several of the models backstage — mostly, he reported, to blank stares.) But Mr. Mizrahi's models were largely silhouetted in shadow, illuminated behind a scrim. No such luck for the models at this show, not that any — save one nervous chuckler— seemed to mind.

"It's very social, this setting," said Steven Cox, the other half of the label, as he greeted guests taking their seats before the show. Usually, he'd be cooped up in back, attending to the final details. But this time he was offering kisses and greetings, along with pastries from a local bakery, like a proper host. Then the appointed time arrived, and he ducked backstage, which is to say, into plain sight. — MATTHEW SCHNEIER

Top: Matthew Schneier/The New York Times, Bottom: Stefania Curto for The New York Times

Easy on the Eyes at Richard Chai

"I wanted it to feel really lived in, cigarette on one hand, glass on the other like she's really having a good time," explained the makeup artist Mark Carrasquillo about his 90s-inspired beauty look for Richard Chai's fall/winter 2015 collection. "What Kate Moss and Shalom Harlow looked like at parties after the shows."

See how to get the look here.

Firstview

Creatures of the Wind Mine the '70s for Inspiration

The self-effacing designers of Creatures of the Wind, Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters, billed their show as "an exploration of definitive moments in American psychedelic culture," raising the question: Who, exactly, would remember those?

Certainly a lot of the fabrics — mustard-yellow flowers, metallic swoops — suggested 1970s wallpaper as perceived from a bathroom floor. Then there were the oversize stars, Stevie Nicks-ish bell sleeves and twisted gingham. (Surrender, Dorothy?) But the iPhones really started flying up when swaths of fur arrived on the floor, cut into cropped jackets and an oversize scarf. — ALEXANDRA JACOBS

Stephanie Colgan for The New York Times

St. Moritz Ready at Ralph Lauren

Stiff upper lips softened at Ralph Lauren. The usual formalwear came surprisingly informal this season, with a black-tie boiler suit option front and center at the presentation's opening room.

Farther afield, in the Polo section, a beaded cocktail dress was shown with a fleece jacket in acid lime, and a traditional tux was worn under a ski parka. It must be flip, or quip. Or maybe just the answer to a question that would only be asked in Laurenland: how ever are you going to ski, post-slopeside gala, down to your car below? — MATTHEW SCHNEIER

Matthew Schneier/The New York Times

February 21, 2015

VFiles Kicks Off

The downtown kids from VFiles took over Lincoln Center to show off the four winners chosen by its staffers and fashion insiders from more than 3,000 designers who created profiles on the VFiles site. Here Andrea Jiapei Li, a recent Parsons graduate, demonstrates her facility with unconventional proportions and creative uses of textiles.

Stefania Curto for The New York Times

A Three-Course Dinner Theater at Rachel Comey

At the Rachel Comey show at Dustin Yellin's event space, Pioneer Works in Red Hook, Brooklyn, models in yarn-trimmed separates and leather dresses wended their way intermittently around the tables of a seated three-course dinner Wednesday night.

The guests included Parker Posey, Cindy Sherman and Monica Lewinsky (who, snapping iPhone pictures of the chocolate croquembouche, said this was the only N.Y.F.W. show she'd be attending). The entertainment included the jazzy band Assembly and Tracee Ellis Ross, daughter of Diana, in character as a gynocentric life coach called Madame Hiver.

"Your vagina wants to sing," Ms. Ross told the assembled, to nervous laughter. The evening concluded with glasses of Scotch.— ALEXANDRA JACOBS

Elizabeth Lippman for The New York Times

David Hart's Furry Pants

One group that is not going to be happy about David Hart's new men's wear collection is the anti-manspreading brigade. The fur pants Mr. Hart showed Wednesday morning — his take on traditional shearling cowboy chaps — need more than a subway two-seater.

The desert southwest was the point of departure for Mr. Hart's collection, which drew on the jagged geometries of Navajo Storm Pattern rugs and the washed-out colors of '60s spaghetti westerns as seen on late-night cable, rendering those fancy rodeo chaps as trousers so voluminous they could use their own ZIP code. — GUY TREBAY

Hiroko Masuike/The New York Times

Coca Rocha and Company

Coca Rocha shows off her baby bump in a Zac Posen gown at the amfAR's annual kickoff to New York Fashion Week, held Wednesday night.

Benjamin Norman for The New York Times

Bucket Hats at the Fingers Crossed Collection

Ryu Hayama's collection offered a much-needed jolt among the more conventional men's fashion presentations that occurred today. Exhibit A: Fisherman-style hats (and pink hair).

Helga Traxler

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